The happiest days of our lives...Canoa Quebrada

I left by bike the city of Fortaleza few weeks ago, to go down and reach the city of Natal. I planned to bike for 4-5 days to complete the entire road, but after the first 75 kms my left knee became very painful again, so i stopped in a gaz station, it was a sunday afternoon, very hot and windy as everywhere on the north coast.

I stopped right on time to watch the Brazil CBF play against Ghana, and it was a very nice game. Lots of emotions like everytimes. There was a big truck parked there with 3 drunken Brasileiros yelling at the TV, so i asked them if it was possible to join them for a small strech of road and they accepted. So after the game i lifted my bike in their truck and made about 80km with them to arrive in the city of Aracati, close to Canoa Quebrada.

My first idea was to stay only 1 night in Canoa Quebrada, relax and maybe try to continue by bike on the next day, but i changed my mind and PRETTY FAST. Canoa Quebrada was the most amazing place i saw in my trip with a very nice broadway cobbled streets and cute wooden shops. The village is surrounded by huge sand dunes and some amazing desert landscapes. Most of the cars in the streets are Westfalia white taxis or Dune Buggies. The atmosphere there is close to Goa in India.

This place is yet conserved from the destructive MASS TOURISM and filled with younger travellers looking for party and dance reggae and Forró. The beach is about 300m from the village center and the big sand dunes are full of nice colors, from the gray to the pink.

I stayed at the Pousada California, an amazing hostel with a great breakfast, a swimming pool and many interesting travelers. I have met Ana Paula from Mexico, Abi from England and Véronique from Switzerland. I took pictures from them and they are on my flickr account. There was also the 2 Catalan guys, one from Andorra. We drank some Red Wine and CaipiFrutas and talked in Spanish for hours.

We made also an amazing buggy ride in the sand dunes around the village, and i really enjoyed it! In the night, there was a "Barraca" on the beach playing reggae music, with a big fire on the sand just beside. There was black lights and hippies dancing around the fire, and cheap drinks. All you can ask for was there. Pure moments of happiness. The kind of atmosphere that you are really looking for when travelling. I passed 8 days in Canoa Quebrada and i could have passed months there. I just hope to find other places like that in Brazil, maybe Trancoso in Bahia.

After the PARADISE, the deception

Like every good times have to end a certain day, i decided to move south to Natal. I arrived late in the night by bus, and i biked in the city streets to find a shitty pousada, expensive and dirty with no travellers. What a hell after so much fun. I was in a deep depression, regretting to left Canoa Quebrada so fast. Maybe i was not realizing how much it is difficult to find a place like this.

On the next day i left in the early morning to reach the Praia da Pipa in hope to find another Canoa Quebrada lost paradise, but nothing special there! This city is a boring tourist trap, with nothing spectacular except for the prices. Lots of couples and old stinky tourists and expensives boutiques, with no fun night life or parties. A true place to open up your veins. I stayed there 2 nights to relax the legs and i decided to continue south to reach João Pessoa by bike.

João Pessoa

I arrived in João Pessoa, a nice place. Nice but quiet (as the rest of Nordeste). I stayed in a nice pousada full of potential, but totally empty of travellers. Pousada do Cajú. I was on the side of the beach and it was very similar to Fortaleza. A big sidewalk with some restaurants and internet cafés. But you become bored very fast by that kind of place. I visited the old city center and it was nice, looking very colonial. The low season really sucks when you are in places like this. Most of the bars are closed and there is no special party or things going on. This is why i decided to leave after 3-4 days and reach Recife by bus. I had to meet with Natali, my long time friend from Salvador, Bahia.

The meeting with Natali in Porto de Galinhas

I arrived in Porto de Galinhas by bike the same day that i left from João Pessoa. The bus arrived in Recife around 1h00pm, and i biked the rest of the afternoon to make the 75km to reach the touristic village. I spent the next day walking around and relaxing. On friday Natali arrived around noon, and i was waiting for her since 9h00am. She arrived in a moto-taxi and removed the helmet, i was very nervous to see her. I was suprised because she was taller than i thought, but for the rest the mental picture i got was almost exact.

We spent a great week-end, and we met 2 guys (gays?) at the same Albergue. One called Tiago was from São Paulo and the other from Curitibá in Parana state. I had some doubts about his sexual orientation but Natali had the same feeling when she talked to him. Anyway, he did not told us about that but we spent good time all people together. There is some pictures on my flickr about that week-end.

I will see Natali in her city Salvador, the next week. I am actually in Olinda and preparing myself to move to Aracaju to see some old chatting pals from there, Raquel and Rafaela.

The actual plans

Tomorrow morning i will bike for about 30km in the big city of Recife to reach the bus station and i will leave for Aracaju. I plan to pass the week-end there with my friends and drink a lot of alcool. I don't know about the weather there but i hope it will not rain. I will try to update my blog once i will leave this place to reach Salvador. From now, i will stop it here. Take care of you and cheers. This is an amazing experience!

-JS-